♪ ♪ modern turkey was founded in 1923 on the principles of secular, democratic statehood after centuries of empire. >> it has been the most turbulent year in a decade of turkey's political history. >> turkey has set a new course. one that many hoped would carry it into the european union. >> there's clearly a significant portion of the turkish population that's not happy with the policies of the democratically elected government. >> but things have changed.

they are changing. >> you get clashes erupting, demonstrators throwing rocks. >> and what happens next has implications far beyond turkey. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la

>> it has been a turbulent year for turkey. and i arrive in istanbul at the moment of a critical election. the question on everyone's mind is whether the current president and his ruling party will win a large enough majority to change the constitution, potentially allowing him to stay in power indefinitely. these have been good times for some. particularly in the construction and development business. and fearful ones for others. they are particularly concerned about what happens next, for instance, in the kurdish parts of town. ♪

>> our polls are opening. turkey's voters choose a new parliament which could lead to big changes in the country's political system. >> the ruling justice and development party expected to take most of the seats. >> but how much power the president actually has will be determined by the success or failure of the kurdish party. >> the hdp, originally a kurdish political party, has sought to unite the disparate voices calling for change in response to 13 years of what has essentially been one-party rule by the akp.

so history, whatever it might be, is about to happen. >> just in the past hour, polls have closed in the country's parliamentary elections. ♪ >> voters in turkey have just shaken up the country's political landscape in a major way. they said no to placing recep tayyip erdogan in push for more power. >> the ruling akp party did not win the majority its president had hoped for. in fact, they lost seats in parliament and for the first time the pro-kurdish party gained enough votes to earn a real voice in the government. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ >> we are at the very tip of istanbul next to the black sea, so the ships that are going by here, they're sically going to russia. >> i meet an old friend, esra, for my first meal back to country. >> i know you like your fish

with the head and tail. >> i do. this is perfect. >> i ordered some ruku. >> that makes me so happy. >> yes, which is our national drink. it is -- >> i am familiar with this, all too familiar. cheers. >> welcome back. >> so since i last saw you, which was in -- >> 2009. >> 2009. wow. a long time ago. istanbul looks a little different than last time i was here. it looks a little more like every other city. >> yeah. well, construction. >> there seems to be a lot of that going on. >> yes. >> your president likes to build stuff. pour concrete. >> he keeps the economy going. turkey's so much politicized since the last time you came, like after 2011, the daily life

issues like how many children you should have, advising women not have laugh out loud in public, things like this were actually suggested by the government. >> right. do you think this is coming from genuine ideological religious place or is this a political calculation? >> i think it's a genuine -- >> you're telling me that current leadership is, in his heart, is genuinely opposed to alcohol, women laughing in public? >> um, maybe i don't feel comfortable answering that question. >> okay. turkey's most famous politician, recep tayyip erdogan, he is the power and has been the power in one form or another for more than a decade.

he's the face of turkey's ruling justice and development party, the akp. erdogan has in recent years made islamist politics mainstream and while remaining very, very popular in this extremely polarized nation, cracked down hard on media, political opposition, free speech, and, of course, demonstrations. in 2013, the almost revolution in turkey happened. a protest to contest the demolition of istanbul's gezi park resulted in a brutal crackdown by police. in response, ordinary turks unconnected by any ideology poured into the streets. with the whole world watching on social media, they, too, were met with force. in the end, erdogan remained

firmly in control and there were repercussions for many who had supported the protests. from that point on, media, social media, even open discussion of issues or events, became treated as hostile acts by foreign enemies. ♪ autocrats in general are not famous for their sense of humor so it's no surprise that comedians in turkey like she and her fiancee walk a perilous lie. are these good times to be a comedian in turkey? >> it's definitely one of the best times because our former prime minister, support for -- >> we don't use the names. we just call him the greatness or, you know -- ♪

>> i guess they're running the finals. >> the finals. >> yes. >> all weight classes. but it's basically greco roman wrestling. just greased up. as i understand it you can't choke with one hand. right into some greasy ass crack. that's fine. ♪ tell me something ♪ i want to know what are the rules of the game ♪ ♪ ♪ >> turkish oil wrestling.

a big freaking salad covered with oiled men in leather pants giving each other spirited and prolonged reach-arounds. oh, geez. can we get rights to the barry white greatest hits record or diana ross "love hangover" or is that too obvious? i like to be respectful of ancient tradition, but the jokes write themselves. what, there's, like, ropes inside or handles? where do i get a pair of those pants? those are some super freaky pants. >> did you see the golden belts? >> it's got to be because the pants are awesome. imagine what the belt looks like. ♪

does he stop yelling at some point? >> the announcer is called -- >> yeah. >> and in slang, it means person who talks too much. it's too loud. it's time for political end. lots changed since your last visit. >> obviously the mood has changed a lot which is weird because everything seemed to be going so well. things seemed to be getting more tolerant. >> tolerance level is so low these days. >> right. >> people taking sides don't like the other one. these people don't like our kind. >> so what happens if someone doesn't like your joke? somebody in a powerful position does not like your comedy. what happens?

>> depending on the degree how much he doesn't like you, how much he's offended. >> let's say he's really offended. >> you go to jail. or being, you know, terrorist or -- >> aiding and abetting the enemies of the state. >> yes. enemy of the state. being enemy of the state is most common thing you can do right now in turkey. they're asking for more oil. >> more oil. >> istanbul. ♪ and surprise! those seats sometimes cost a ridiculous number of miles, making it really hard to book the flight you want.

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♪ building boom or building bubble. architect and city planner garman has been capturing i stan bull's construction boom with his camera. he employs a unique method of compressing panoramas to create a striking re-imagining of cityscapes reflecting, perhaps, more of the reality than a straight photo could. >> i've been following what's happening in istanbul because it's my hometown, and what's happening is that the new government is basing the supposedly booming economy totally on construction. so what they did is they started to build high-rise housing, shopping malls, roads, and all

that, but not necessarily buildings that are related to the making of culture. all this construction is related to consumption. >> well, are these spaces needed? at whatever income level, will someone be living in these buildings? >> that's a very good question. i'm asking the same question. >> yeah. first things first. >> yeah. >> we'll save the world later. >> this is the turkish version of pizza, let's say. ♪ >> pita has some similarities. i mean, there's cheese in it. dough. but it's more like a calzone maybe. i don't know. it's an official delivery vehicle for this case ground meat, cheese, and onions a not so little torpedo i was going to say straight from flavor town, but no, that would be wrong. i want to see what you do with this. i want to see how you eat this.

what do you do with that -- you dip in the egg? pour it in? >> exactly. ♪ >> mm. this is -- >> cholesterol bomb we call it. ♪ >> remarkable lack of sentimentality about really one of the most uniquely glorious looking spaces anywhere. why don't they care? >> i agree. there's a lack of sentimentality and there's also a lack of vision, i believe, hometown vision. we have very short-term visions. mostly based on money making. >> when people look at the work you do, what do you want them to see?

>> first of all, i really value the sustainability of our political culture. i want my work to show, hey, look, this is what we had. i think we are already losing it, so why don't we stop here and maybe consider doing something else? ♪ ♪ >> long home to tradesmen, greeks, jews, and armenians. groups whose populations are these days a tiny fraction of once they once were. this neighborhood like many in

istanbul is slated for redevelopment in the name of urban renewal. wow. look at that. it's a lot of food. cesar and his family have been running a restaurant here for nearly 20 years. ♪ >> the way that we make the food, it's our own language. that's the whole idea about it. >> so your family's armenian. >> yes. >> is the food armenian? >> this is my mom's food. whatever we eat at home. >> authentic tradesmen's restaurants are getting harder and harder to find. most are family-owned businesses. the kind of place where you can get a classic home-style meal of traditional dishes. you're clearly romantic. do you think there is a place in modern istanbul for romantics or will they be oppressed by modernity?

>> they use real guns but they still continue to protest. nothing else. >> so what's the future of armenians in turkey? will there be more armenians in istanbul in 20 years or fewer? >> less. >> less? >> yes. >> this turn toward a more conservative, more islamist, is this a political calculation or do you think this is generally genuinely how people feel now? >> it's the way that people feel now. because of the way that our president, the way that he talks, it's not only political issue, it's reality. i don't know what he has in mind, our president, but somehow

he let people fight with hate. i believe that hate will be, you know, it will make an end soon. that's what i'm afraid of. that's why i'm telling you that young generation, armenians, they will definitely -- >> wow. i hope you're wrong. i like to be -- i mean, i'm not really an optimistic person but i hope you're wrong about istanbul because it's an amazing place. >> i hope you will be the one right. w do i know i'm getting te best price on this? we'll match any competitors price. what about this? price match guarantee. and this? yep! so no monkey business, no tomfoolery? oh, we do have tom foolery, tom. staples has a price match guarantee. make low prices happen. staples make more happen. vo: it happens so often, you almost get used to it. i'd like to make a dep-- we got this. vo: which is why being put first

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hold on. give me help and not crash my car. not today. maybe tomorrow. i have to pass this. if i don't pass this -- >> it is a long-held belief that if you want to know the real deal, what's really good about a town -- >> what a life. >> -- if you want to know where to find the good stuff, you ask a cab driver. >> i don't know wrong way, right way. what is what. take it easy. >> i don't know if that's true. not in my town, anyway. but in istanbul, i know a cab driver.

my old friend, ethan. hello, my friend. good to see you. >> after all those years. to meet again. >> what a coincidence. >> i love that. ♪ >> how are things in istanbul? it looks very different. they're building stuff everywhere. >> hotel, shopping center open, more restaurant open, more disco open. >> more discos? i thought this was a conservative government. >> government conservative, bullet people, and they have to shake, they have to drink. life too short. [ speaking foreign language ] most people ask me, did you make an accident? and i say, yes, i take two people, three people hospital and then i pass cemetery.

they are scared. really? how can you ask a taxi driver, did you make an accident? >> right. >> we're going across the bridge. i love here. look at this city. new mosque. golden corn. i love this city. yahoo! come on, everybody! taxi driver is nice job. i love this job because you meet every time new people. >> right. >> and on the way, you never get upset. >> right. [ speaking foreign language ]

i wish i dance, but i barely dance. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ what? come on. everybody say this not normal. i study about ottoman, relearning languages. when you ask why ethan learn this, i want to learn history, original. >> probably not while driving. >> not driving. traffic already stopped. i talk to much, boring, and i go.

take another taxi because i talk too much. this is my home area. >> oh, yeah, you live in this area? >> yeah. >> so this is a local favorite of yours, this restaurant? >> this restaurant i know since 30 years. ♪ >> so it's cow foot, tripes. very nice. that looks good. man, this is just delicious. are the young people more conservative or less conservative? >> my daughter, mary, religious person.

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♪ the voice of istanbul. i've had at least 30 names. now they say i'm between the east and the west, an identity crisis. mine or theirs? enough of this nonsense. take the labels off and just look at me. you won't need a guidebook. like all cities, i have my own sense of time.

i'm a labyrinth of layers that only makes sense without a compass. ♪ if you're hesitant, not sure which way to go as you walk about, follow one of my cats. they will lead you to places, introduce you to people, point out secrets they keep even from me. they, more than anyone, are the longest continuing residents of the city. ♪ a challenge to those who see the future in my past, i'm an obstacle for those who see only the future. i see change with the patience of centuries.

look at my silhouette from the bridge on the golden horn. time has not passed me by. it has protected me. i ask of you the same. >> an hour ferry ride and a world away are the prince's islands in the sea of marmara. friends have invited me for lunch. actor, translator. >> yeah. >> philosopher. poet. are these good times to be a poet in turkey? >> it is, actually, because it's a way to bring down the noise in

a way because so many words are exchanged especially in heated political discussions. >> i have become very used to and fond of this drink, by the way. maybe too used to it and too fond of it. >> they used it call it lime's milk. a poet was famous for saying i wish i could be a fish in the bottom. >> he prepares a traditional spread of meze. an extremely tasty, very diverse assortment of dishes originating at every corner of the former ottoman empire. the ottomans like to eat and entertain and employed armies of cooks to dazzle them with ever-changing menus. variety being key. circassian chicken. beans. rice with mussels. eggplant.

stuffed grape leaf. poached eggs with yogurt. all classic and all delicious. >> what shall i give you? a few of everything? >> yes, please. >> i'll put some -- maybe i could give you some chicken already. >> make room for that i think. here we go. wow. it's really pretty. am i getting a distorted picture of turkey by spending all of my time in istanbul? it's very different than the rest of the country. how different? >> but i think in istanbul, you have all the different parts of turkey also. >> what does it mean to be turkish? what do you think? >> sarah, are you turkish? >> yes, but it's not my fault. [ laughter ]

>> man, this is so -- let me say, this food is extraordinary. i mean, really, really amazing. when i was here last, it was a very different mood. now at least the tenner of the things said by the government are increasingly ugly. an intolerant. you have this social activism that's very unusual. certainly the government is appealing to traditional islamic values whether it's for show or not, there seems to be some reevaluation of how much of a party town do we want to be? >> these days, the powers that be don't like it. >> do they genuinely not like it, or are they appealing to a political base? >> oh, no, it's populism. it's a political base. and lots of people, of course, play along saying that they don't want to drink, et cetera, because that's the way you get your contracts, that's the way

you get things done. >> nationalism seems to be working internally. >> yes. >> nationalism and xenophobia, it's a vote getter almost anywhere. >> it's a vote getter but it's a vote loser as well in the sense that there's so much backlash. >> what do you think's going to happen? >> get back to normal. >> you think it will -- >> oh, yeah. ♪

♪ ♪ walking down istanbul streets, it's easy to forget or not take seriously the slow but certain change in attitude toward this kind of freedom.

♪ for lack of a better term, to party. ♪ the akp is in power because a majority of voters put them there. their attitudes for better or worse reflect the attitudes of a great number of turks. all right, man. this is nuri, a turkish businessman. i'm glad we met you because you are an akp supporter. you voted for akp. >> yeah, i did. >> right. why? >> before, economy was so bad. no foreign investment. interest rates were so high. inflation was about 100% per year. so it's very hard to make

business in such circumstances. in 2002, i had 78 employees. now it's 2,950. >> since i got here, i've been talking to a lot of people who are very upset about the environment, they're upset about the destruction of old, beautiful buildings. to a great extent, they do not like what much of the world would call progress. so when you saw people running out in the streets and demonstrating, what was your feeling? >> they said they went there for the environment, but at the end, they worked together to raise people. we have to accept istanbul like this. i cannot change it. no one can change it. >> no going back. >> 50 years ago, they could do some things, but not now. >> you're not sentimental about the old neighborhoods, the old -- >> no. ♪

>> this is a party town. this is a nightclub town. the impression is that there's some ambivalence there. ten years from now, will we be able to come to this bar or a bar like it and drink lots of gin drinks and misbehave? no problem? >> no problem i think. this is a party town. >> right. >> we drink hard. >> so it's all about money. >> it's all about money. everything is all about money in the world. >> who will be turkey's -- which way are they looking? to the east or the west? >> east. russia. china. vietnam. and the arabic countries. at west, europe is getting weaker and weaker day by day.

in the next 50 years, it's going to be the era of the east, not the west. >> uh-huh. these notions of freedom of the press, these are not eastern concepts? >> no. >> they're not. okay i'm going to ask you a tough question. is freedom of the press overrated? >> yeah. yeah. yeah. it's overrated. >> you think tightening up on the press is a sacrifice that you're willing to make for a good economy. i don't want to put words in your mouth or prosperity for the majority. >> it is. it's the same all over the world. it's not typical for turkey. >> right. >> that's like -- >> thank you. >> thank you. >> this is a really bad idea. okay. cheers. [ speaking foreign language ].

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ezra, of course, good to see you. >> welcome to our park. >> i'm glad i haven't eaten yet. that is awesome looking. >> have you ever had turkish breakfast before? >> with you. you do eggs in the park. impressive. >> this place is one of the last

remaining parks in the vicinity. since 2013, people have been gathering here in what we call forums to talk about their ideas for -- how can i say -- >> debates, chats. different people gathering here at night after work and then talking, trying to find solutions, right? we didn't have any other place to go. so we came here. >> why is it so important? >> i think it's not just for us, for future residents of istanbul. >> this space turns into a space of politics, a space of hope against the system which seems to be like impossible to break, actually. >> is it impossible to break? >> no. not now. >> it was impossible a few weeks ago. >> a few weeks ago it was

impossible. you are feeling optimistic. >> the hope is the revolution. if you lose your hope then there is nothing to do. i think the tide is turning. but for the -- if you compare -- and -- park, in the arab spring, they are protesting against the dictatorship. but in turkey i think you can say there is democracy. >> ezra and her friends, previously unlikely to have known much less like one another were brought together by circumstances. >> have you been -- >> are you talking about pollution? >> tear gas. >> when you are getting gassed together you really connect through a life or death situations. you hold each other and run away together. it was a very actually emotional

thing for me because all my life, i was taught to keep away from different types of peoples, like i never had a kurdish friend. people around me were all like me and i was lacking so much richness in my life. thanks to -- i saw everyone the same. >> people in real democracy people learn to speak. >> the tear gas connecting people. you run away together. >> tear gas connecting people. democracy is always a fragile thing. 92 years ago modern turkey was assembled from the fragments of the ottoman empire. it has always struggled to find a balance between those in power and the consent of its widely diverse population.

since the filming of this episode, turkey's newly elected parliament failed to form a coalition and president erdogan quickly called for new elections. at the same time, his revved up military action against kurdish forces in turkey and across the border in kurdish iraq. many claim he effectively plunged turkey into conflict in a bid to take advantage of an atmosphere of fear and uncertainty. this is not an unreasonable assumption on anyone's part. fear works. fear gets votes. the opposite had hoped that the tide was turning. it remains to be seen if they have any reason to hope.

♪ for most of my life, libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gadhafi. libya meant terrorism. >> pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> libya meant a bad place where a comical, megalomaniacal dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> reports of explosions. >> clashes between rioters and security forces. >> in 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened. the libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom. >> heavy battles raging around the libyan capital. >> they fought like hell. >> the rebels are about to force gadhafi's complete departure. >> and tco